切牛排的正确方法图解

春天2012年RTW


Jason Wu吴季刚



照片：Marcio马德拉


by Mark Holgate

Over the summer in London, girls were spotted in the city’s hip new uniform, and not just in the newly cool enclave of once hardscrabble Dalston, but just as much in never-had-it-tough Mayfair. It was a look comprised of neat tailored shorts, ladylike structured shoulder purses, and heavy lace-up flat combat boots. (Listen, this is a London summer we’re talking about, remember?) Jason Wu, the princeling purveyor of sheath dresses that are very precise in their uptown New York urbanity, would, you’d think, be a million miles away from registering this impulse to look both super-dressed-up, then take it way, way down, but clearly he has, and to his benefit. His spring 2012 runway had every one of his pretty and precious Wu-isms all present and correct—delicate lace, sparkling embroideries, fluttery feathers galore. But it was how they were worked, and what they were worn with, that revealed new dimensions to what this young designer is capable of.

The shorts were tiny here, not much more than briefs; Wu calls them “sport shorts,” so if you ever had an aversion to gym class when younger, avoid, avoid, avoid thinking of this description. They were worn with everything from techno faille coats to beaded collar silk shirts, from nylon windcheaters to sequin-encrusted tops with extravagant peplums. (The leg-challenged will be glad to know that otherwise it was high-waist skinny pants, so relax.) In essence, that’s how he channeled that attitude from over the other side of the Atlantic: Take quite lavish and couture-like references and ease, and loosen, them up with graphic, sportier elements, pretty much all rendered in black, white and pink, as well as a very 2012 shades of cobalt, acid lime, and citrus yellow. (He was also aided in this by referring, through his prints, to the cartoon-like drawings of U.S. graffiti artist KAWS.)

Take, for instance, his new idea of evening, which featured an ivory silk tee with a digitalized petal print and a black gazar pencil skirt with a feather-edge peplum. (Get ready: Come spring, the peplum is going to be the new platform.) In the collision between chic and cool, it expressed—perhaps most emphatically out of everything he's done up until now—the playfulness Wu is capable of in his designs. Oh, and one other thing: Unlike her London sisters, his girl went for ankle-strapped stilettos. But you could, of course, add your own weighty army boots, should you prefer.


在夏天在伦敦，女孩被发现在城市的髋新制服，并不仅仅是一次hardscrabble Dalston新酷飞地，而是从未有强硬菲儿。这是整齐的量身定制的短裤，大家闺秀的结构肩皮包，和沉重的花边*战斗靴组成一看。 （听，这是我们谈论伦敦的夏天，还记得吗？）吴季刚，***的传播者，是非常精确的在他们的住宅区纽约文雅的紧身裙装的话，你会觉得，一百万英里的距离注册这种冲动，看超精心打扮的，然后它的方法，方式，但显然他，和他的好处。他的2012年春季跑道每一个他的珍贵和美丽的吴ISMS的所有现在和正确的细腻的蕾丝，波光粼粼的刺绣，嘉豪fluttery羽毛。但他们是如何工作的，和他们穿，这个年轻的设计师是能够发现新的层面。

短裤这里是微小的，而不是远远比内裤，吴称他​​们为“运动短裤，”所以，如果你曾经厌恶体育课年轻，避免，避免，避免这种描述的思想。他们穿的一切，从TECHNO罗缎大衣串珠领丝绸衬衫，尼龙风衣奢侈peplums缀满亮片的上衣。 （“腿的挑战将很高兴知道，否则它是高腰线瘦的裤子，所以放松）在本质上，如何他的渠道对大西洋彼岸的这种态度，：以相当阔气和时装，喜欢引用和易用性，并出现松动迹象，他们与图形，动感的元素，几乎所有呈现黑色，白色和粉红色，石灰，酸钴以及一个非常2012年的阴影，以及柑橘黄。 （他还资助指，通过他的版画，美国涂鸦艺术家KAWS的卡通图纸。）

举例说，他的新想法日晚，它的特点与数字化的花瓣打印和一根羽毛边缘peplum gazar黑色铅笔裙的象牙丝T恤。 （获取准备。来吧春天，在peplum是去新的*台）在潇洒和酷之间的碰撞，它表达的也许是最强调出他的做，直至现在，在嬉闹吴最多的一切是能够在他的设计。哦，和另一件事情：他的女孩与她的姐妹们，绑脚踝的高跟鞋去了。 ，当然，但是你可以添加自己的份量军靴，你应该喜欢。

刚开始看这部片子的介绍,发现它很难勾起我观看的欲望,造型怪异的人物,灰暗离奇的布景,以及这个不适合动画片的名称.但是冲着蒂姆-波顿的大名,以及先前他带给我的'大鱼'(Big fish)的惊喜和感动,我还是决定要看一看.

维多利亚女王时代,一对有钱的商人夫妇一直想进入上流社会,而同时一对贵族夫妇守着祖先留下来的大房子和贵族头衔,却生活窘迫.所以当两家商量联姻的时候,双方的父母都是欢喜异常.而商人之子羞涩苍白的维克多(Victor)和贵族小姐天真善良的维多利亚(Victoria)因为共弹一曲钢琴曲而坠入爱河.但the road to happiness full of hardships(好事多磨),羞涩的维克多却因为在婚礼上始终无法正确念出新郎的宣言,还把丈母娘的裙子烧着了.他一个人步入月光下的森林反复练*的时候,却无意中将结婚戒指戴在了早已化为树干的僵尸新娘的手指上.

僵尸新娘也有一个悲惨的身世,她是穿着母亲的婚纱在等待和情人私奔的夜晚被杀害的.死后她确仍然对成为别人的新娘而念念不已.当她发现了维克多的时候,欣喜若狂.而落入阴间的维克多仍然挂念着自己在人间的妻子.当他听说维多利亚将嫁给一个贵族时,万念俱灰,想喝下毒药在阴间与僵尸新娘一起厮守,确发现身后站着穿着洁白婚纱的维多利亚.

这个简单的故事和格林童话没有太大的区别,但不同的是,没有王子公主美丽的爱情,一个早已死去的新娘,一个落寞贵族的后代,一个苍白的商人的儿子,都有着极小的下巴,大大的眼睛,单薄脆弱的身体,以及与身体极不协调的四肢. 如果说<<查理与巧克力工厂>>用的是及其夸张的色调和和鲜艳的视觉冲击来营造对感观的刺激,从而制造出荒诞的视觉效果的话,那么在<<僵尸新娘>>中,红,黑,白三种颜色就支撑了整个世界, 蒂姆-波顿为我们勾勒了一个冷色调的处于崩溃边缘的童话.

在片中,活在人间的人们,封闭而守旧,对自己以外的事情毫不关心,灰暗的世界,宛如地狱;而早已死去的处于阴间的骷髅们,却整日载歌载舞,仿佛仍然活着一样,这充满强烈讽刺的对比,从另一个侧面说明了苍白脆弱的维克多和天真烂漫的维多利亚,是不可能有着纯洁的婚姻的.早已死去的僵尸新娘,仍然对于人世间的爱人苦苦盼望,而她却不知道,杀害她的正是当初答应和她一起出逃的爱人.而阴间的骷髅们,却热心的帮助她,为她找寻重返人间的方法,这一切,在蒂姆-波顿的手下,让黑暗的尽头,出现光亮的边界!

最后的结局,维克多给了僵尸新娘一支玫瑰,让她在走出教堂后化成一片片飞翔月亮的光艳的蝴蝶.

歌特式的建筑,巴赫式的钢琴曲,姑娘纤细的腰肢和艳丽的红唇,......这部电影是给孤单的人看的,坟墓旁边盛开着湿漉漉的蓝色的玫瑰,在黑暗中,一切都被赋予了诗一样的色彩.