Francisco Costa’s look for Calvin has always been about the juxtaposition between elegance and minimalism, embracing simplicity without resorting to starkness. Spring finds Costa in a muted mood, focusing on a restrained palette of neutrals and earth tones in luxurious fabrics. Delicate tulle slip-dresses called to mind those classic spaghetti strap numbers the house’s founder used to put on the runways in the mid-nineties, but the shapes have been modernized. Waists were more defined, metallic accents added interest and sheer overlays provided a hint of sexiness. With the brand’s face Lara Stone taking her place in the front row instead of the catwalk, all doses of sensuality were dee*** appreciated. Costa’s airy, elegant pieces felt fresh, especially after a season dominated by prints and color – once again, the Calvin standards prove their worth in gold.
